ROOF EDGE TRIMS
FAST-FIT READY MADE

Benefits

Made from extruded recycled or virgin polystyrene polymers.
Standard colours Black and white. Trim length = 2.5 metres long.
Drip trim (two pieces ~ inner and outer piece) or Kerb (Water check) trim.
Each trim comes with joint cover pieces and fasters with heads to match trim colour.

Installation of Fast Fit roof trims

Before laying the waterproof membrane

Fix a rot proof batten (approx. size 25mm x 50mm) around the roof perimeter, level with the top of the roof deck. Fix the back drip edge trim to the batten adjacent to the gutter. (see drip edge section). Apply the waterproof membrane over the roof and trim off surplus at the bottom edge of the batten or back drip edge trim.
Cut and fold the membrane flat around the roof corners, when installing thin single ply membranes. When using thick membranes try using a Fast Fit rubber corner cap inserted under the membrane then cut the membrane to the corner angle. This simple idea keeps the corner flat and waterproof and allows the corner trim to fit snugly against the corner of the roof.
 

Check kerb trim

The Fast Fit check kerb trim is designed to secure the edge of the waterproof membrane and stop the water going over the roof edge. Installation is quick and simple (see design drawing.)

Notes:
Cut the trims down to length if necessary using a sharp saw. Drill trims with a 5mm long slot if further fixings are required. Always make sure two rubber seals are between the joints. Slight marks can be removed using jiff (cif) cream cleaner and a soft cloth.

      When Installing on very cold days allow a gap of at least 5mm between the trims.



Drip Edge Trim
The drip edge trim is designed to firmly secure the membrane over the edge of the roof and allow the water to flow over the trim, into a gutter.

When Installing on very cold days allow a gap of at least 5mm between the trims.

ALUMINIUM TERMINATION BARS

Use of Termination bars - Where a wall rises from the level of the flat roof to finish the edge detail either a lead counter flashing should be chased into the wall and formed to cover the rubber/ wall interface or an aluminium termination bar should be fitted at the interface covering the edge of the rubber. This bar is best retained by stainless steel screws held in the wall by means of rawl plugs. For the Self-Adhesive System the wall needs to primed and when the primer is dry the rubber needs to be firmed in place all as for the decking. The edge of the rubber sheeting should then be welded to the wall whether it is masonry or some other substrate. For the One Piece System the Impact Bonding System should be used on the vertical area and for a strip 0.3m wide adjacent to any upstand. Similarly Termination Bars can be used for felt or other coverings.

DIY Roofing Ltd offer an aluminium termination bar designed for roofers by roofers, the main advantages are:

1. A self locating retaining screw groove enabling a drill to be located into the groove so that holes are always neatly positioned centrally.
2. Screw groove also significantly reduces the tendency for the drill point to skate around without steadying the drill with the other hand.
3. The groove has shoulders to match the screw head for positive neat location so no         countersinking is needed.
4. The surface is fluted to increase the handleability by reducing the appearance of scuff and scratch marks
5. The temper has been selected to reduce the tendency to distort in handling and fixing.
6. The shallow "W" section also gives stiffness to help maintain a crisp neat profile when fitted.
7. The rear leg is designed to key in the sealant so there is less tendency for sealant to creep and pull out.
8. The edge flares are at different heights to enable reversibility to suit wall conditions.
9. Flutes make far easy marking off in pencil, pen or felt tip before cutting and the mark is clearly visible so easy to find without error.

The primary seal is given, far the Self-Adhesive rubber system, by welding the self-adhesive rubber to the wall or in the case of the One Piece rubber system, by bonding the rubber with the Impact Bonding Adhesive.
The Termination Bar acts as a weathering strip to protect the rubber / wall interface and also covers the interface giving a smart appearance.

Fitting Termination Bars - The 2.5 m aluminium termination bar is presented to the wall to determine where the retaining screw holes should be positioned. Generally 5 screws per 2.5 metre length should be adequate that is one screw about 50 mm from each end, one at the centre and the other two each equidistant from the centre and end screws (ie 600 centres). The aluminium bar needs drilling with a HSS drill giving a good clearance fit to allow for lateral movement for the bar across the shank of the screw. The bar should be re-presented to the wall and checked with a spirit level then the wall should be spotted using a masonry drill small enough to pass through the holes in the bar. The bar should be laid aside and the correct size masonry drill used to drill rawl plug holes. Plugs should be inserted into the wall and the bar screwed to the wall (screws at either end first then the centre).

Low Modulus Silicones are usually appropriate for sealing joints liable to substantial moisture or thermal movement, and, if acetoxy silicones, are very fast curing, durable, thick bodied and particularly suited to UPVc glazing and light construction uses.
High Modulus Silicones are usually extremely durable and weathertight, providing good performance on many general applications; they have a 5 minutes skin formation time and are for interior and exterior use and, if acetoxy silicones, are flexible and suitable for glass, aluminium, painted surfaces, ceramics and non-porous surfaces.

Typically silicones allow for substrate movement of 20-70%.

Application:- To create a neat seal stick masking tape to both surfaces adjacent to where the bead is to formed 3 to 4mm from the internal angle. Cut the cartridge nozzle at 45 o so that the bead generated is just wide enough to fill the angle between the two tape edges. Gently squeeze the sealant gun trigger and as the sealant stats to flow place the tip of the nozzle in the angle with the nozzle at 45 o to the wall. Push it along the angle causing the nozzle to shape the sealant bead into a neat slightly concave curve. Maintain a steady and constant force on the trigger. Pushing the "D" shaped clip on the plunger bar releases the plunger and sealant is no longer forced out of the nozzle, however it does creep out slowly so it needs removing and placing where it can do no harm ie on old newspaper or a board etc. and leave the sealant to skin over then peel off the tape carefully. If considerable pressure is necessary to force the sealant from the cartridge then soak it in warm water until it becomes more fluid. (If no sealant flows out of the nozzle it is blocked and the nozzle needs removing and clearing).

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